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Wiper broke my window!

July 25, 2014, 10:26 am
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I was replacing the wiper blades on my ATS for the first time. I had just removed the old blade on the passenger side and as I was setting it against the windshield when it slipped out of my hand about 1-2" off the glass and caused the glass to crack and spider web a foot or more up the glass! Has anyone else had this happen? I think its a quality issue with the glass since it was not a lot of force. The dealer and my salesman both say that it will not be covered under my bumper to bumper warranty. Insurance in this state does not cover it either without paying all of my deductible.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I couldn't imagine what would of happen if a rock had hit it while I was driving!
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Exterior Rubber Sunroof Trim Issue

July 25, 2014, 7:04 pm
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Good Evening Folks,

I have a '14 2.0 T standard model but ordered the sunroof and heated seats. A few days after purchasing the car a friend pointed out to me that the rubber trim surrounding the outside of the sunroof was sticking up a little bit. It's nothing huge and there are no leaks in the car, however as it is on the passenger side of the car it is a bit embarrassing. My co-workers all drive german luxury cars Merc CLS, BMW Z4, BMW X5, BMW 328i, etc so I am proud to represent with my Caddy. At any rate I took it to my local dealer once after work and they cleaned the track, lubed up the rubber and had me open and close the sunroof like 20 times. They said it should get better after that but it hasn't. I know its a real 1st world type problem and not worth a visit to the dealer on its own merits, but I was wondering if anyone else had this issue and knew of any fixes? Otherwise I'll just have the dealer look at it at my first oil change. Also weird note, it only does it when I open and close the sunroof in tilt mode. If I open and close it in slide mode everything lays down perfectly... Otherwise I love the car and am super glad I chose it over that little FWD Merc CLA!

Thanks
PhiL
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E85 idle issue

July 26, 2014, 5:59 am
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When I put E85 in my 3.6 it will not idle. It surges a couple times and quits. Only in park and neutral. In gear it runs perfect. And on regular gas it runs perfect. I have no idea what the problem is. Has anyone else had this issue? And yes it's a flex fuel car.
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Sport Pedal Install

July 26, 2014, 6:50 pm
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I just have a base model ATS so I will add the parts I want as I go. The first upgrade is the Pedal Kit. You can get the kits for about $125 shipped either off eBay or from a GM dealer.

So, what is in the kit?



You get a new foot rest cover, new brake pedal cover, a accelerator pedal (with controller - drive by wire) and some crappy instructions.



Before


After


Tools
1) Small flat blade screw driver
2) #4 metric allen wrench
3) a curved tool to help put on the brake pedal cover.

How To

Foot Rest
Using the small flat blade screw driver remove the retaining clip at the top of the foot rest. Once the clip is removed push down on the tab and remove the cover. The kit provides a new lower connection plate and retaining clip. But, they are the same parts as what is already installed.

Next take the new foot rest cover slide on the lower connection plate, making sure the bottom is in the mounting slot.

Now push it down until the catch at the top snaps in place. Replace the retaining clip and your done. It takes all of 5 mins to install.





Brake Pedal
Remove the old brake pedal cover... It just pulls off. Now the fun begins. It took me at least 30 mins to get this sucker on. Why? For one thing it is not as flexible as the one you took off. Secondly you have stretch the rubber over the brake pedal. I started with on the accelerator pedal side and worked my way around the bottom to the top. You will need some sort of small curved tool to assist in getting the rubber over the pedal.





Accelerator Pedal
With the small screw driver remove the rubber plug the covers the hold down bolt. Next use the #4 metric allen wrench to remove the hold down bolt. Now pull back on the pedal assembly to release it from the floor. Disconnect the cable from the control box by unlocking the red release clip on the plug.

Swap pedal assemblies, install cable connection and slide the locking clip into position. Now slide the assembly back into the floor, install the retaining bolt and the rubber plug.







Start the car and check out the new parts.
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ATS 3.6 Auto first 1/4 mile track night

July 27, 2014, 8:13 am
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12.6@112mph. Had my first night at the track last night with my ATS. I only got 5 runs all night. Had all kinds of issues on my part from not goin to a track in several years. I was rusty to say the least. Only one run was ok and came in at 12.6@112mph. I need a good trans tune badly!! I will work out a few issues I had and should be low 12's next trip

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Oh and a link to my video. Not the best camera but you can still see it

http://vid1152.photobucket.com/album...pse186bd09.mp4

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And their printer was broke last night so you had to go up to the tower and they would hand write your time if you asked them for it

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/...pse64ef778.jpg
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Anyone with trs intake/ can question

July 27, 2014, 8:24 am
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Hello, been running a trs intake and can for a long time now and recently removed it before going to dealer for service. This weekend I was going to reinstall and noticed that the female fitting on the 1/2" hose had an o-ring in it. So, I checked the other two female fittings on the 3/8" hose and there was no o-ring. I was under the impression that flare fittings like the ones on the catch can did not need o-rings to seal. Anyone who is bored today that would like to verify that there should be no o-rings on the female fittings going to the can? I would appreciate. I attached pictures.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h7nw6u2vp...CUC0trOK6zs3La
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Torque Gain on 2015 ATS and ATS 2014

July 27, 2014, 1:26 pm
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3.6 ATS Intake Upgrade Complete

July 28, 2014, 8:04 pm
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So tonight I finished up the first intake upgrade for my ATS. Working on a cold air pickup extension of the box next and maybe some CF look to the pipe itself as well. This is only the first part of the intake work. More to come in the coming month or so.

Attachment 235002
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Idle Relearn Issue

July 28, 2014, 11:42 pm
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I have a 2013 ATS 2.0 T Standard. I started to have some issues with Turbo lag. When turning around a corner and getting on the gas for the straight, the car would bog and react slowly, all of a sudden the turbo would kick in and the car would jerk. To others I'm sure this makes me look like a crazy person. After a while the only solution was to drive SLOW around and after the turn, maybe 4-5 seconds later I could get back on the gas without fear of the turbo jerking the car. I took it in and the performed an "idle relearn". It made my car completely different...in a good way. It was more responsive and the shift points were smoother and less jerky than they were before. This is in Auto, manual or sport modes. It had very good pick up before but responded quite a bit quicker now. That lasted for about 3 weeks, then back to the way it was. Does anyone know how to do an idle relearn? Is there something wrong with my car?
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ATS Fuel Range

July 29, 2014, 10:02 am
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Just curious what gas mileage other's are getting, and what your fuel range is on a full tank.

I've got a manual '13 ATS 2.0T and after I fill up it gives me a fuel range of 300-315 miles. Is anyone getting better or worse, or is that pretty average?

Thanks!
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*** ATS Recall*** Seat Weld

July 29, 2014, 11:00 am
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So I'm sitting in my dealership having my usual free Coke and doughnuts, while I get my first oil change and changing the tranny fluids to AMSoil; my SA comes to me and says "Mr Spalding I just got word of a brand new recall for a weld on one of the seats, I'd like to check that out while you're here...and so on"

this literally happened 2 minutes ago, so if you have any plans to go to your dealer, might wanna have it checked out. I don't know how serous or how many will be recalled, but my 2014 Premium 6M is on the list. I thought I saw something about this in another thread. I'll update as soon as I find out more


------UPDATE-----


my SA just came back with the paperwork and said the recall came out this past Friday or Saturday and it has to do with the drivers seat, and inspecting the welds that bolt it to the frame.

he also said this is for EVERY ATS...also said it wasn't complicated at all and he's done a few and no issues at all
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Anyone remember where this thread is?

July 29, 2014, 8:14 pm
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At one point I saw a thread that was talking about the actual weight of the factory wheels. Then someone posted a sheet with the actual weights of the different sizes and styles. I'm trying to find that weight chart. Can anyone help?
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Splash Guard install

July 29, 2014, 8:39 pm
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As this car is my daily driver I am all about keeping in the best shape as possible. That is the reason I opt'd for splash guards. I didn't even check with the dealer as I am sure the cost would be insane. I found some on eBay for $48 and free shipping from Hong Kong. All I can say is they fit perfectly as they match the body lines and the holes line up.



Tools

1) Small flat blade screw driver
2) Small phillips screw driver
3) 9/32 socket
4) #15 torx bit
5) powerdrill to install a self tapping screw

How To

Pretty basic stuff here. Start by removing the front wheel. Next with small flate blade screw driver release the plastic rivets and remove them.



Next get the rivets started in the splash guard... they are a real tight fit. Once started you can install the guard on to the car and push the base portion of the rivet back into the mounting hole and the push the rest of the rivet in to hold it tight. Lastly use your power drill to install the supplied screw on the upper part of the splash guard. Be careful to not over tighten as you just have plastic as a backing. Use the phillps screw driver to tighten.





Reinstall the wheel and torque the lugs nuts to 100 ft lbs. NOTE - GM uses el-cheapo chrome covered lig nuts.

Now we go to the rear and remove the wheel. But, GM has surprise in store for you. It seems the engineer that did the front inner fenders didn't do the rear. There are 2 # 15 Torxs screws that need to be removed and a 9/32 machine screw. Hummm common sense must be at a premium in the engineering department.:yup:



I installed the machine screw first. Next I installed the 2 fender well screws and tighten them down. Again don't get crazy as they will strip out in a heart beat.





Remount the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft lbs. Now repeat the process for the other side.

Final Look...



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CEL for Barmetric Pressure Drop

July 30, 2014, 10:59 am
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Has anyone seen this before? I didn't get the code, but after two dealer trips the tech found out that the maf sensor had been replaced.

The CEL would come on for about half a day and wouldnt come back for about a month.

I got the car new with ~120 miles because it was brought in from a different dealer and there is no record of it being replaced.

Dealer said they're going to order a maf sensor to replace it.

Attachment 235593
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Tire wear issues

July 30, 2014, 7:59 pm
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My front left tire is wearing to close to the outer edge of the tread . All the other tires are good . I think its because of the right turn ramps . Lol I'm getting sway bars soon or I might have to get an alignment . Has anyone else noticed tire wear like that ?
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longer brake pedal travel after corners

July 30, 2014, 9:32 pm
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I'm experiencing a little more brake pedal travel after driving around some corners . It's not that bad but noticeable . On my transam they reshimmed the rear axle to take the play out and that really did the trick . Has anyone else experienced this ?
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Oil drain valve for ATS.

July 31, 2014, 9:04 am
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I always prefer a drain valve over a drain plug and install one on all my cars.

A valve makes oil changes faster. It eliminates any splatter while draining. And it makes it easy to take samples for oil analysis or to drain excess oil added for track use if you aren't going to change oil right after.

Most of my cars have Fumoto valves which are a ball valve with a lockable lever. But the lever body won't clear the ATS oil pan while the valve is being installed. You can get an extension pipe to mount the valve outboard, but I don't like that idea for several reasons.

I searched for an alternative and only came up with one viable one for the ATS. There were several aircraft drain valves that could be fitted but some were very expensive (over $100) and most had no way of locking the valve since they normally are inside cowling where the lever could not get bumped in flight. I found a European brand for road vehicles, but they don't make one with the Cadillac's threads.

I ended up with a "No Spill" brand valve. They aren't sold in stores B&M or on-line as they are targeted for fleet operators looking to save labor time. But the manufacturer will sell directly to individuals.

The valve body replaces the drain plug and is cylindrical. They make short bodies for vertical drains with limited ground clearance, "regular" size where clearance isn't an issue such as the ATS where the drain is horizontal. And they have a quick change version that operates similarly to an air line coupling or garden hose quick connect. For the first two types, there is a poppet valve parallel with and in the middle of the direction of flow. The valve is opened by a device on the end of a drain hose. As this device is screwed onto the valve body it pushes the poppet valve open to allow the oil to flow into the hose. In operation, a brass cap with internal o ring is hand tightened on the valve. That prevents dirt getting into the valve body and acts as a fail-safe should the poppet valve leak. It's a very good system and a beautifully built item but is more expensive than the Fumotos for the FIRST car you do since the device to open the valve runs $13. But that device will work with all your vehicles (other than the quick change models).

Fram sold a poorly made and executed but vaguely similar product years ago. I still have one on one or two of my vehicles.
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newer tsb

August 2, 2014, 8:06 am
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Was searching around the web and found a newer tsb for Dtc P2138 OR P06A3 and in description it says contact gm engineer before attempting repairs. I believe those codes refer to the tps. Anyone know what's up with this tsb and has anyone experienced these codes? I just find it interesting that it instructs dealers to contact engineers before repair. The conspirator in me wonders what gm may be hiding.
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DIY Window Cleaner

August 2, 2014, 10:51 am
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Not many of us have software to wash our cars and most of the time the sun is out. Needless to say we end up with hard water spots on our windsheilds. I have 37' class A RV and the windsheild is huge compared to a car and the water spots are bad. I have developed a home brew window cleaner that actually works.

NOTE - This is NOT a general purpose cleaner.

1 oz of Wink
1 oz of RainX
And the rest windsheild washer fluid.
Lastly use nothing but micro fiber cloths for the application. I usually use a 2nd mfc to polish the glass.

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Went to the stealership for a part today, less than expected.

August 2, 2014, 12:04 pm
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The black plastic piece that sticks down in front of the wheels, the is one on each side. The drivers side was gone, with only the bolts that hold it in place remaining.

So me and the ol' lady stop by to order one. I said jokingly to the parts guy that I bet it's a $100, he said close, $85. So, I said order it. I just got the car last Thursday, I didn't notice it was gone. What purpose do they serve?
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