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Calculated Shift Points for 2.0T with the Tremec 6MT transmission

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Hi all,

New member here. I just took possession of a new-to-me 2015 ATS 2.0T Premium with a 6 speed manual. Boy are those hard to find. In driving it now for a few weeks, I recall my old Audi 1.8T and and the rush that comes from a small turbo. But coming most recently from the high-revving Acura world, it's taking some adjustments. I presumed based on the torque band for this engine that redline shifts are not optimal. To prove that, I dug up my old spreadsheet I created to determine optimum shift points on that Audi and changed the relevant numbers (including the different tire sizes, gear ratios, and a 6th gear) to produce the attached acceleration force curves.

Each of the data points represents 500 RPM. You'll notice that in each gear, the motive or acceleration force falls below that of the next higher gear at the upper end of the RPM range. In first gear, only the 7000 RPM force point falls below the corresponding point on the 2nd gear curve. So it makes sense to shift from first to second at 6500.

Similarly, each of the 2nd and 3rd gear curves have two data points below the curve of the next higher gear. So in each case, the optimum shift points are at 6000.

Likewise, each of the 4th and 5th gear curves have three data points below the curve of the next higher gear. So in each case, the optimum shift points are at 5500. (assuming you would ever be traveling that fast).

If you want details on how I calculated these curves, ask away.
Attached Images

Oil Filler Mod

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Way back when we were messing with the RX/TRS CC line routing I added a DIY Oil Filler Vented cap. I had the RX version but didn't install as the barbed fitting was to big for the hoses I was using and beside I had -6AN fittings. But, I have been working with Jason@Jacfab over on the Camaro side and remembered the RX cap. So, I decided to make my change and installed it.

For my DIY cap I basically I drilled a hole thru the center of the cap and added a 90° -6AN fitting.





I needed something to catch the oil mist so I added some SS wire from scrubby, a piece of scotch brite and covered it with a fender washer with few holes drilled in it. Over all it works but does not look really nice.





So I decided to mod the RX version to fit my needs. I needed to change the hose barb to my -6AN fitting. I disassembled the RX cap so I could drill & tap the hole for the fitting.








The AN fitting uses a 1/8 NPT thread this requires a 21/64 drill bit and 1/8x27 NPT tap.





Now put it all back together and install it on the car.



KPE ---- New Ownership--Great things coming

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To All


KPE is now under new ownership. Many new and great things to come. We will still carry the great hand crafted quality systems built here in Scottsdale, AZ . Stay tuned for all updates.

We look forward to hearing from everyone.

Have a great day.


Jay@kpe-products.com
Korkar Performance Engineering
888.222.4291 Office
480.323.2987 Fax
www.kpe-products.com

M6 Two Step or similar launch control device?

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Has anyone experimented with a two step or other aftermarket launch control devices? I've got a new project equipped with a 6 speed manual, and would like to find a way to have repeatable launches.

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Oh, duh, 2.0t equipped.

Mods and tunes on 2.0t

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So besides the fact putting a tune on after mods will maximize the mods, are there any downsides to running mods with no tune?

I am going to install a high flow down pipe soon, but am still researching and deciding how best to tune without blowing my warranty.

I don't want to install the dp if it is going to mess my shit up without the tune.


That being said is there any other way to run a tune on the stock 2.0t that won't be found by dealer?? I would think the only true way would be to swap the Ecu for dealer trips.... But I don't know how much info the Ecu stores or what they are able to see.

What hav you guys done??


Important to note I have a '15 ats 2.0t RWD, and I live in Canada so no smog or aircare rules to follow


I just want to keep my warranty intact, even if it means swapping out bolt on mods prior to dealer trip

Any Ideas and guidance?


Ultimate goal is to rebuild the top end with better valve springs and maybe a cam, with a turbo and inter cooler upgrade


Have zzp CAI installed, and a zzp catted dp ready to go in

Gold drilled and Slotted Rotor??

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Was looking to replace the stock setup with drilled and slotted rotors
Has anyone had any experience with rotors of any color other than the silver finish??
If so has the contact patch from the break pads wore down the color??

Example linked below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111908570242

ZZP Cold air intake question

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Hey


Anyone install the zzp cold air intake on ats 2.0t?

Put mine on today, at cold start, makes almost like a shop vac noise for 20-30 seconds then slowly quiets to normal. Also when driving it makes the shop vac sucking under pressure sound up until about 5500 rpm then becomes a very very sharp whistle

I am familiar with turbo cars and cold air intakes and the relative sounds they make.....

My q is..

How loud did yours get? My main issue is that between 2000 and 4000rpm the sucking Intake, shop vaccy sound is a lot louder than I've ever heard on any car.

It seems like the car is almost gasping, I am maybe seeing a sight power loss, ie tire squeal around a corner vs none with CAI...

I've taken it apart, loosened refitted and tightened all hoses joints, even removed the zzp metal cover so I can see and feel for leaks or anything, but not seeing any signs of holes or leaks or anything.


As mentioned wierd thing is the shop vac sound at start up cold and mediums revs under load.

Any thoughts opinions, advice would be greatly appreciated

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Oh yeah my next step is putting back on the stock set up to check for the sound at cold start...

has anyone tried Jet-Performance-69190-Power-Flo-Mass-Air-Sensor


3.6L Cold Air Intake

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Does anyone have a CAI for the 2013 ATS 3.6L for sale or know where to buy one? The only place I found that sells them is aFe and they are expensive at $425.

E85 injector gunking, is it a real thing??

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I picked up an E85 tune package from Vermont tuning. Pretty excited about the new tune and power. However, I have reading about others having problems with high pressure fuel pumps and injectors gunkigunkinI dont understand the injector "gunking" thing since it's alcohol which has great cleaning properties.. I get it may be harsh on certain fuel system parts compared to gasoline. Anyone have experience with running 100% E85 in there ATS or even other cars? Looking for some suggestions/advise. Thanks!

2013 cadillac ats 3.6l v6 needed for development

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2013 CADILLAC ATS 3.6L V6 needed for development in our facility in Riverside CA.

RECEIVE A FREE INTAKE KIT FOR PARTICIPATING.

Contact me for more information.

Ray
K&N Engineering
1455 Citrus Street
Riverside, CA. 92507
(951) 826-4000 ext. 4489

Catch Can - Yes or No?

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I have had my CC on for over a year have yet to get any oil out of it. Why? I modified the line that runs to the intake by adding a check valve that only lets fresh air to go to the engine. To prove this to myself I pretty much took my system apart to check the various components for oil, carbon or soot. Term CLEAN or NO OIL means that I could wipe off with piece of paper towel.


1) My DIY intake tube - clean
2) Turbo inlet - clean
3) CC drain - 0 oil
4) Inter-cooler tube - clean
5) Throttle Body - clean
6) Intake - clean


I removed the intake tube, inter-cooler tube and throttle body. I used my bore scope to inspect the intake. I would post pics but there is nothing to post. But, I did take a couple of pics to show the function.








So what is the fix? A $5 check valve stuck in the intake line.





Now I did add 1 more mod and that was a line from the oil filler cap. I had a DIY version but modified the RX one to use
a -6AN fitting. This line is T'd just aft of the check valve.



Tunes: Are they really worth it.

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18 months ago I purchased a tune from Trifecta for my 2013 3.6 ATS. I was hoping to gain an additional 18-20 HP's and a better torque curve. Maybe I was expecting more than the marginal HP gains ( 6HP). Which is barely noticeable. Is the driving experience a little better, hard to tell. I could probably get more bang for the buck from larger exhaust system and cold air induction or finding an engine from an ATS -V. In my opinion it was not worth the expense.

E-85 in 13 ATS 3.6

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Are all ATS 3.6 engines E-85 capable?

First post, blown 2.0T...

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Hi all, bought my 13 ATS 2.0T a couple weeks ago. Noticed a loud, uneven knocking at idle after the car warms up. Hooked up my Solus and went for a beat run. Noticed it would drop oil pressure briefly at around 5k rpm but only to about 57 psi, then jump right back up to 80-90 psi. Brought to the dealer and they told me it is definitely not right, and that they have to pull motor and figure out what's wrong... They told me I won't get a new motor, but that they will just pull it apart and fix what's wrong. I have seen a video or two of this exact issue, anyone remember what was wrong with those cars?

On a positive note, the tech may or may not have mentioned that "if a rod comes through the block they will have no choice but to put a new motor in". I have been driving the car pretty hard since I left the dealer, and for the most part the car seems fine still. No knocking other than at idle. One time yesterday I did manage to get the car to lose RPM under WOT on the highway, but that may just be a fluke. I also asked the tech about the piston issue, and he told me that the cars were tuned too aggressively from the factory, and that there was a recall.

I love the car, but I wish I had done a little more research before impulsively buying it... I really wanted to buy the VT tuning 390hp kit but now I am afraid to touch it without going all out and doing forged rods/pistons...

Thud/bump on decelearation downshift 2016 ATS4

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I have a 2016 ATS4 with the new 8-Speed transmission. I've had it since March, and it worked perfectly for the first couple months, until after about 2 months it started hesitating on acceleration and had a really pronounced bump or thud at around 15 mph (23 km/h) while I was gradually slowing down (even coasting) to a stop. I drove it like this for a while, as I read online that with the adaptive transmission the tranny had to learn my driving style, but after about another month it still wasn't getting any better. It eventually started slipping on acceleration from high speeds, such as passing other cars at highway speeds. I took it into the dealership who proceeded to change the valve body twice, which didn't resolve the issue on either occasion. They then did a transmission "re-learn", which to my understanding brings the ECM software of the transmission back to factory condition. this also didn't resolve the issue. they have now agreed to change the transmission as a whole, but I'm not sure this is going to fix anything either, and neither do they. Everything I've explained is happening in Touring mode, and I've found that when I switch into Sport mode, it gets even worse. I've read online a bunch of people having this issue, most of which have had new transmissions installed, some of which have had their issue resolved, other not. Before I get the dealership to rip my whole drivetrain apart, has anybody has success in solving this problem, or have any advice as to what I can suggest trying to the dealer? Personally, I was thinking that maybe it isn't switching properly into Touring mode, as Sport mode seems to make it worse, but that's just me spitballing. Any thoughts?

Thud/bump on deceleration downshift 2016 ATS4

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I have a 2016 ATS4 with the new 8-Speed transmission. I've had it since March, and it worked perfectly for the first couple months, until after about 2 months it started hesitating on acceleration and had a really pronounced bump or thud at around 15 mph (23 km/h) while I was gradually slowing down (even coasting) to a stop. I drove it like this for a while, as I read online that with the adaptive transmission the tranny had to learn my driving style, but after about another month it still wasn't getting any better. It eventually started slipping on acceleration from high speeds, such as passing other cars at highway speeds. I took it into the dealership who proceeded to change the valve body twice, which didn't resolve the issue on either occasion. They then did a transmission "re-learn", which to my understanding brings the ECM software of the transmission back to factory condition. this also didn't resolve the issue. they have now agreed to change the transmission as a whole, but I'm not sure this is going to fix anything either, and neither do they. Everything I've explained is happening in Touring mode, and I've found that when I switch into Sport mode, it gets even worse. I've read online a bunch of people having this issue, most of which have had new transmissions installed, some of which have had their issue resolved, other not. Before I get the dealership to rip my whole drivetrain apart, has anybody has success in solving this problem, or have any advice as to what I can suggest trying to the dealer? Personally, I was thinking that maybe it isn't switching properly into Touring mode, as Sport mode seems to make it worse, but that's just me spitballing. Any thoughts?

Quick diablosport question

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Just curious for those with 3.6 that did diablosport tune...Did you do a transmission tune as well or just leave it alone and skip that computer, I just did the 93 octane tune and skipped adjusting the transmission...Thanks

Advice Needed - Bad Custom Tune?

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July 2014: Purchased DiabloSport inTune for my 2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T 6MT. I think the timing makes me one of the earlier customers of the inTune. After a week or so of back and forth with Mike (unrecognized VIN), I was able to install the canned 93 octane tune.

June 2016: Purchased a ZZP Catless downpipe. Installed it myself without any issues, using the hardware included from ZZP. Here's where the fun begins...
1. Sent a "steady driving log" to DiabLew from DiabLewTune.com. My check engine light surprisingly didn't come up for quite some time, but when it finally did, I found it to be the expected P0420.
2. DiabLew responded to my initial log with the following:
"You need to check the air intake, downpipe, and exhaust.. you're waaaaay lean.. not good... shouldn't be that lean...

check the air intake, make sure it's all fully connected/together, and that all clamps/bolts from air filter to throttle body are all TIGHT so no air leaks anywhere...

check the downpipe and retighten all bolts, make sure all TIGHT so no air leaks..

check downpipe connection to exhaust and the whole exhaust system itself, make sure all bolts/clamps are TIGHT so no air leaks anywhere...

Make sure all breather hoses and vacuum lines are all connected where they should be...

then, after everything is fixed and tightened up, you need to get me a new steady driving log..
"

3. I double checked the flange bolts and indeed they were a little loose. After tightening, I sent a new log to DiabLew and received my first custom tune file. DiabLew did not mention if the new log looked any better, so I was curious to see if tightening the bolts helped. Here was his response:
"eh, not really.. fuel trims were still pretty lean.. about the same as before.. so I adjusted maf sensor table to adjust the fueling for it.. so will be good now with the tune.."

4. Immediately after installing the custom tune, my butt dyno was really unhappy. The car felt really sluggish and did not feel good at all. On the same day, a new engine code popped up (P2097). DiabLew sent me another custom tune with the P2097 code disabled.

5. After a week or so of driving, I contacted DiabLew again and noted my dissatisfaction. After another steady driving log, he sent me one more custom tune to see if it would help. It did not. At this time, I also surprisingly discovered that DiabLew does not update any of the DiabloSport WOT settings:
"and like I mentioned, I don't change anything for WOT settings, knock retard settings, etc on factory supercharged/turbo cars - whatever diablosport's WOT settings are, are what I use.. so nothing for WOT has changed.. it's the same as it was.."

After a couple days of driving, I noticed a couple more engine codes pop up, P0013 and P0014. Along with these codes, the car itself was also experiencing noticeable issues. The turbo appeared to not spool at all after a bit of driving, as if the car didn't even have a turbo. DiabLew indicated that these codes were mechanical in nature and would not be caused by the tune.

So now, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've contacted some local tuners in the area, but unfortunately nobody works on the DiabloSport platform for my vehicle. They are all HPTuners or custom in-house. I'm also not sure how to approach DiabLew... as his customer service has been pretty good, but I am completely unsatisfied with my purchase. I'm hoping you guys can give me some ideas on what my best course of action may be. I'm trying to avoid non-DiabloSport options right now as I don't want to go through the trouble of selling my inTune.

A couple questions I have are:
- Has anyone else had issues with DiabLew's tunes?
- Would anyone be able to look at my custom tune file and let me know if something in the tune would cause the symptoms described above?
- I saw that BadNewsRacing offers custom DiabloSport tuning as well. Should I maybe just try getting a tune from them?

Custom axle back exhaust

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Hey guys finally fixed the last thing that was bugging me about my car.
I love the look I have achieve with the suspension and wheels I have installed but always felt the car was way too quiet even under hard acceleration, I had checked the available options from Borla, Magnaflow, Corsa and KPE and none of them seem to have the tone I wanted. The only system that seem close is this one from member Rozay http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...aust-work.html , unfortunately his videos were not very good to hear the exhaust.

So with that in mind I spent the last month listening to way too many video of different 2.0T cars of all brands with different type of exhaust and decided that most likely a Dynomax r Magnaflow muffler was going to give me the tone I wanted and since the shop I do all my exhaust work at is a local Dynomax dealer that was settled.

Working with them we decided to copy Rozay work and settle on a 20" Ultra Flo Welded 1 in/2 out and 4" Vibrant tips (to note an 18" would have been an easier fit but we agreed that the 20" would have a better tone and rumble) we also decided to keep the second OEM resonator in the first step and remove it if the exhaust was too quiet.

Coming in I was looking for something a little quiet and a deep rumble with some popping an gurgle under acceleration and I can say we designed the perfect system for me it's perfect with a nice bassy note and you can hear an feel it at idle but it's not too loud and sounds real good.

as in everything loudness is different for everyone but if you want to do the same and go louder you can go with and 18" or 14" or take off the middle resonator

Here are some pictures and videos , for the videos after watching so many the best way to listen to them I have found is with large headphones or in the car audio via Bluetooth













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